My wife and I made the mistake of reading too many reviews before our meal at Enoteca Pinchiorri; there are so many disappointed patrons! We shouldn't have been nervous, however. The restaurant is a luxurious delight. However, I'd like to share our method for navigating...the menu—there is a way to get a truly three star experience without feeling like you've been robbed.
First of all, we viewed every choice with a great deal of curiosity. (There are many choices to make.) The famous "water menu," which features sparkling and still bottles from all around the globe, at first seems pretentious. But after we were led through it, it made sense. We were able to choose water with wide range of mineral content. We chose two bottles that were completely different from one another—we never knew water had such character! With this menu, Enoteca Pinchiorri invites you to change your relationship with water. Yes, the bottles are costly (10-20 euros), but the price and the decision forces you to be more attentive to the nuances of the precious resource you are drinking.
Next, the food menu. We decided NOT to do the tasting menu because my wife wanted to splurge and try a dish with white truffle. We each shared two appetizers, two pastas, and we split a main dish and a dessert, which I daresay is the perfect amount of food for two people—we got to tour the menu without overstuffing ourselves. We've discovered that in Italy all servers will recommend a 3 course meal for every individual person, which is often too much for us. We were very glad we didn't listen and decided to share the main, which was very generous! For a 3-star Michelin restaurant, Enoteca Pinchiorri has substantial portions.
What did we eat?
- Salted cod sandwich, rocket juice, vegetables pickle with salted butter and celery ice cream
Score: 8/10. My wife did not care for the celery ice cream but I absolutely adored it. The cod sandwich was browned to perfection, almost like a souped up tuna melt.
- Amberjack slices marinated in smoked vinegar, strong sweet mustard, Bagna cauda sauce, crispy bignet of chickpeas and coriander and caviar
Score: 9/10. Ridiculously flavorful. The amberjack's light brine was a heavenly match for the crispy bignets. I was also very impressed by the coriander seed / caviar mashup, which was aesthetically as well as gustatorily pleasing.
- Pici of wholemeal bread, zolfini bean purée, salted and then fried anchovies, lemon, and crumbs bread flavoured with dry tuna
Score: 9/10. I'm particular to bean and fish dishes, and this one delivered. Possibly the best long pasta I have ever eaten. The fried anchovy heads were a delicious and rustic touch.
- Agnolotti stuffed with stewed muscovy duck, 40 month Parmigiano Reggiano sauce, toasted walnut oil and chicory
Score: 10/10. With truffle, this was truly to die for. The parm sauce was a nutty, savory dream, with the duck providing just a whisper of gamey umami. Possibly worth the entire meal.
- Double rib of veal with burned herbs, braised tomatoes, liquorice and toasted bread sauce, fondent sweetbread in an Taggiasche olive juice
Score: 9/10. Scorched to perfection, the veal was an excellent climax to the dinner. The sweetbreads provided textural variety and some extra fat. Incredible and decadent.
- Passionately golden chocolate egg: chocolate egg filled with passion fruit composition and chocolate bavarian
Score: 7/10. A fun if not mind-blowing dessert. Chocolate egg stuffed with passionfruit yolk. After the meal's heaviness, this was a nice, light, sweet ending. I was reminded of Cadbury cream eggs!
I would also give 10/10 to the bread service. Throughout the meal we were served a delicious assortment of focaccia and brown breads. My favorite was stuffed with tuscan kale.
Now, a word about the wine menu. Once again we opted against the tasters, partly because we prefer different wines to those that were featured. I asked the somm for a recommendation based on the flavor profiles and regions that I enjoy, and he pointed me towards an absolutely riveting bottle from the Rhone Valley. Was it expensive? Certainly. But later research showed how difficult these wines are to acquire. This was a once-in-a-lifetime chance to purchase access to one of the best wine cellars in the world. I'm glad I did.
Everyone talks about the water menu, but no one mentions the COFFEE menu! I was delighted to find that the restaurant also sources espresso from all over the world. I had my pick of coffees from Honduras, Ethiopia, Jamaica, Salvador.... In the end I chose a Nepalese coffee that was smooth, fruity, and balanced. Divine, and the best espresso I drank on this trip.
In short, my wife and I made an effort to navigate Enoteca Pinchiorri's daunting menus decisively, and we had the meal of a lifetime for a little over 500 euros per person. I would highly recommend it to anyone who enjoys fine dining, particularly those who regularly splurge on high end wine like my wife and I do. Thank you, Enoteca Pinchiorri, for an unforgettable evening!More