I arrived on the beach below the main deck, looking for friends who'd already left. One of the friendly waiters, who I would see several times over that visit, helped me find them, and we ended up on the deck drinking a mango margarita, and contemplating life. Five or 6 o'clock is the perfect time to be on the beach-it is just cool enough that the heat is not so punishing and the water just stretches on and on.
The cheap massage was just ridiculous! And I mean that in the best way- I could have cried real tears it felt so good. If you decide to get the massage, be sure you bring a little extra to tip your masseuse. If yours is as awesome as mine, You'll be really sorry if you have nothing extra. Sure the experience is a little awkward, lying there in a line of strangers as the twilight melts away into darkness. The distant "shush" of the waves is punctuated by bits of muffled party music that float in on the breeze, like you are at the party, but separate from it at the same time. My friends and I returned to our table, finished our drinks (which the waiter had refilled and made cold for free without us having to ask) and I went down to dance with the ocean in the moonlight (a fabulous coastal past time, if you've never tried it). The bank there is steep -the water rushes in suddenly waste high, and then back out. The Sea of Cortez is a little unruly, but if you try hard, you can learn the steps.
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