This was the best meal I have had anywhere in the past two years. Dinner, the creation of master chef Jacques Chibois, was quite superb, a wonderful combination of textures and flavours, beautifully presented and with immaculate service, save a struggle for water to be served. We avoided the tasting menus and chose a three-course a-la-carte. The starter was Fraicheur de Thon, elegant cubes of tuna toped with caviar and accompanied by a small vegetable minestrone. For the main course, my guest chose fish, St Pierre. I chose Dos de Veau. Both were exquisite. Wine can be ordered by the glass and we had excellent advice from the sommelier: St Aubin with the fish and Gevrey Chambertin with the veal. The dessert was elegant perfection, a Soupe de Fraises with tapioca pearls in a light lemon bergamot and accompanied by a miniature strawberry tart. At €220 a head including two glasses of champagne and service, it is not cheap, but if you compare the price with, say, opera seats at the Met in New York or Covent Garden in London, it is fair value for those whose wallets can stretch, for an evening of high culinary artistry. This was my third visit over the past ten years and the restaurant goes from strength to strength. Highly recommended.
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