Everyone knows the famous and thrilling Picasso masterpieces. But who has seen his wild and hilarious and true studies of Velasquez's Las Meninas. I was stunned by this extraordinary collection. When Picasso needed a break from the Girls, he painted a series of the Dovecote on the balcony. Amazing. They make you laugh and think and look more deeply. Observing the transformation of the German shepherd in Las Meninas is worth the price of admission. Just wandering through the four medieval palaces is like being in a time machine.