It's an old joke -- "The food's a disappointment." "So why do you keep going there?" "They give you so much of it!" -- but it perfectly sums up a lunch at the Tettye Vendéglõ this past week. Nothing particularly distinguished about the German recipes refracted through a Hungarian kitchen, nothing that raised their execution above that available in any middle-range restaurant. Such a shame... the setting is lovely, the waitstaff personable, the service excellent. But the food? Meh. I ploughed dutifully through half my platter of heavy noodles, soupy spinach-and-garlic sauce à la crème, and thin-pounded pork wrapped around farmer cheese and spinach... then pushed it away and asked for a go-box. Enough for two calorie-bomb meals but, again, not flavour-bomb ones. What if the noodles had been more slender, or thinner, and had been dressed only with butter and a bit of nutmeg? What if the cheese had had a bit of snap, or if a bit of lemon juice had been added to the filling? What looked so good on the menu was... stolid. Oh, well. You'll like this place if you're an indiscriminate and heavy feeder. One warning: What the menu calls "marrow" has nothing to do with osso bucco. It's brain -- as in what a table-mate had, a great dollop of chopped sautéed pork liver and brain, served with a fried egg on top and chips. No one ever accused the Germans of wasting bits of what used to be a pig!
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