I stayed 2 nights squeezed into a packed itinerary but to take full advantage it needed to be much longer. Fort Cochin is a place where you should take time to just wander and soak up the atmosphere, and in the hotel itself there are luxurious areas (lounge, library, verandah, courtyard pool area), where it would be nice to spend time relaxing. Le Colonial is a fine early colonial era house which has been lavishly and sensitively restored. The result is a perfect balance of historic charm, style and contemporary amenities. Forget any ideas you might have that ‘heritage’ means compromising on comfort, this is a supremely comfortable house to stay in. I booked the Viceroy room, which is large, well appointed and beautiful furnished with fine antiques. It has a deep verandah occupying about two thirds of the frontage, also well furnished with an assortment of antique chairs, tables and desk. Wifi is free but coverage in the house is patchy and didn't really extend to my room but you can get it in communal areas. The food is simply delicious. The hotel is in a good central location, right beside St Francis’ church, and on Sunday morning in my room I could hear the congregation singing hymns. It’s a short stroll to sites like the Synagogue, Jewish cemetery and Chinese fishing nets as well as shops and restaurants. But what really makes the place special is Smita and her team. They are delightful: friendly, accommodating, interested, always keen to be helpful, willing to share their knowledge and enthusiasms. They have the spirit of hospitality flowing in their veins. There are several fine heritage properties to choose from in Fort Cochin. Brunton’s Boatyard has the waterfront, though that can be a mixed blessing if you prefer a quiet environment. Malabar House (where I have also stayed) possibly has the edge when it comes to cuisine, though the pool is really just a decorative feature. For a combination of quality accommodation and superb hospitality, Le Colonial seems hard to surpass. I can’t wait to return.