Make no mistake: this climb is no walk in the park. It is a legitimate mountain and a tough two days for an amateur hiker.

Day 1 is a 4-5 hour trudge uphill that will wear on the lungs and the glutes. Our group had the misfortune of spending 2 of these hours hiking up a river in the pouring rain. The trail was slippery and the rain was heavy, but looking back on it, it made the experience all that much more crazy - which is what we were looking for.

We ended our day at Laban Rata, which was a welcome respite. The beds were soft, and even though the electricity was out, the rooms were fairly warm...just don't expect a hot shower. The food was actually quite good, and there was lots of it. As with a lot of Asia, avoid eating the salad. Two of our group suffered upset stomachs the next day; not ideal for hiking. Stick with the cooked food.

Day 2 is a real challenge starting at 2am, where you start the 3-4 hour hike to the summit. The hike in the dark was pretty cool, and the adrenaline blocked out the cold for most of the time. The final pitch to the summit is the most challenging part of the trek, particularly because of the thin air at that altitude and the hand-numbing cold. However, we were rewarded with an amazing sunrise over Sabah and a huge sense of accomplishment.

The hike back down is a full 8.7km and is a real strain on the knees/quads. We went at a slow pace, but I would recommend going a bit faster and trying to carry some momentum downhill. This is the way the guides walk, and I think it might take some strain off the muscles overall.

If you're going to do this hike you should pack:
- Gloves...probably warm gloves. The ropes aren't that chafing, but the cold was uncomfortable.
- Hiking pole (or two). Will help with balance on the way up, and save your knees on the way down
- Extra socks. If you get caught in the rain your feet will get drenched.
- Bags for your stuff. Again, with the rain, a lot of our stuff got soaked, even though our packs were supposed to be "waterproof". Nothing was ruined, but it would have been nice to have some non-damp clothes for the 2am hike on day 2.

Even though it was a physically demanding grind for 2 days, as soon as you finish you feel great (mentally...probably not physically). Good news: hour-long massages in Kota Kinabalu cost about US$10.

Finally: getting back to town from the hill can be a little annoying. The public bus has no schedule and can come anywhere from 30-90 minutes. Plus, then you have to hike back to the main road, which is the last thing we wanted to do. Our group of 4 paid RM150 (US$50 total) for a cab back to our hotel. Not too bad.

Climbing Mt Kinablau via the Timphonon route (the easiest) was a fairly vigorous effort for the two of us who trained for only a couple of weeks leading up to the climb and were sick with colds during the climb, but the reward of seeing the sun RISE from the summit was more than 100% worthwhile. And of course there's simply nothing like knowing (and being able to boast) that we've conquered Mt Kinabalu, the highest peak in Southeast Asia.
To be fair, the climb itself, and packing sensible equpment, is about all we can claim credit for. Park authorities (and your RM) provide little luxuries that you normally don't expect on a hike: a patient and humourous Kadazhan mountain guide who kept me from falling off the mountain, tidied pathways often with steps/ stairs/ safety ropes, rest pavillions with flush toilets/rubbish bins, and perhaps most surprising of all, a warm comfortable overnight stay at Laban Rata - complete with freshly laundried sheets and towel (!!!), tasty buffet meals, clean bathrooms, a snacks/drinks store... you can even get a porter to carry your gear, but we thought that was just going too far.

So my advice for other not-so-fit climbers is to
1. Train as much as you can. I suggest lunges and stairs. The fitter you are the less likely you'd struggle or have an accident. If you're healthy and determined enough you'd still get there eventually, but allow more time esp for the summit climb if you don't want to miss the sunrise. It took us 6hrs base-LR, 3 hrs LR-summit, 2hrs summit-LR, 4.5hrs LR-base.
2. Invest in the right gear. You need to stay cool enough for the lower half and warm enough for the summit climb. Pack minimally - I think anything more than 5kg is too much. When you're exhausted and looking up at yet another unending flight of steps, each kilo feels like a hundred more.
3. Start the climb early on Day 1. This allows more time to rest at Laban Rata and avoids climbing during the heat of the day.
4. Unwind in the hotsprings (or at least a hot jacuzzi) after the climb. Get a gentle massage too, its cheap in Malaysia.

Packing suggestions.
1. Lightweight hiking backpack with raincover.
2. You wear: lightweight breathable top and pants, waterproof hiking boots, socks, cap/ sunnies, sunscreen, sports watch (if you want to keep track of time).
3. You pack: camera with spare battery (it seems to die quicker up there), 1L water in a water bladder, energy bars, first aid kit (painkillers for headaches due to altitude sickness), sunscreen, waterproof hiking jacket (or plastic poncho), headtorch, wool socks, merino wool base layer top and pants, lightweight mid layer fleece jacket, beanie, waterproof ski gloves (in case its wet), thin gloves/ liners (in case its dry), energy drinks eg milo, toilet tissue, toiletries (you may not be able to have a hot shower at LR due to electricity shortage).
4. Walking stick. You can get a simple wooden one at Kinabalu Park for RM3. It really helps.
5. Sutera provided a packed lunch for the first part of the climb. It consists of a 500ml bottle of water, an apple, plain sandwiches, a piece of fried chicken and 2 hardboiled eggs. If you get the same thing, I'd suggest that you have the chicken for breakfast unless you fancy a cold soggy chicken later on. Dump the big plastic box and pack the sandwiches/eggs in ziplock bags that are easier to carry. Ziplock bags are the best friends of hikers!

1. Bring plenty of water or water bottles. You can fill them up at the restaurant at HQ and at Laban Rata. The water along the trail is not purified.

2. Bring snacks. Prices are high at Laban Rata.

3. Tylenol is a must. You will probably be pretty sore coming down.

4. If you find someone selling a walking stick, buy it, but leave it behind when you make the climb from Laban Rata to the summit.

5. Good gloves (warm with a good grip for using the rope), a warm hat, good shoes, and a head torch are a must.

6. Layer. You will start out cold, then get hot, and when you get to the top you will very likely be cold again.

7. Rain wasn't a problem for us, but definitely pack clothes that are waterproof.

8 Sleep as much as you can. I recommend ear plugs and sleep aids because otherwise you will probably lay awake most of the night.

9. While fitness is imporant, the most important thing is to stay focused on getting to the top. You have to really want it or you will probably quit. We saw many people who appeared to be in great shape because they were tired from the previous day and the lack of sleep. Stay focused. The view is worth it!