We came to Ulu Muda knowing that it was going to be a camp/chalet-like experience. That was met, because the facilities though basic was very much livable and true to what a field research centre should be. with some insects at the corner of the bathroom, mozzies flying and limited electricity, it is all compensated when you wake up to the sound of the gibbons, hornbills and wildlife of the rainforest early in the morning. The one-hour boat ride from the Kuala Muda jetty will take you right into the only place you could live in this forest reserve. Get some sunscreen on and a cap for this midday boat ride. The evening cruise is the most enjoyable activity for all of us because we got to take our time to listen to the sounds, identify the animals, watch out for them in the trees and if lucky, spot the elephants. The jungle trekking was tiring, because of the many stops and we were busy ticking leeches off our bodies but it was an enriching experience. Wear leech socks and long sleeve shirts! Don’t be put off by the leeches because more leeches means there is a large amount of wildlife present. As our guide says, consider it forest tax!