Holiday dinners/brunches tend to be stressed, both for restaurants and their customers. One usually lowers one's expectations. That is not necessary at Millwright's! Today's Easter Brunch was flawless in the food department and very good, if not quite excellent in the service arena.
The food comes first, and the array of six appetizers, six main courses and four desserts on their holiday menu reflected sophistication without pretension. My wife and I both had the silky foie gras mousse with thin slices of strawberry and brown bread to start. It was masterful. We also both opted for Spring lamb, four thick slices of loin, exquisitely cooked, on a bed of herbed faro and with a nice chunk of fennel. The lamb was sublime. We chose different desserts, a lemon curd Pavlova with caramel-cardamon orange slices and a chococate tart with peanut butter and brown sugar oats, both wonderful.
We could have been equally happy with the other menu options.
Millwright's has a superior waitstaff, and they were as cordial as ever, but the tag team approach to keep things moving with 300+ reservations, did get a bit jerky. Clearing plates just as you finish your last bite, via someone you haven't seen before, sets the wrong tempo. We always prefer coffee after dessert, bot before it arrives-and we weren't given the option. Seeing our waitress bobbing around the dining room, stopping here and there with some accelerated movement, had a bit of a pinball machine effect. We were in and out in 75 minutes. Efficient, yes. Relaxing, no. The front desk wasn't manned when we arrived, and barely so as we left.
Still, the bottom line is the virtuoso kitchen. The wine list is moderately extensive and well chosen. If the weak link is the tempo of service, I would rather it be that than another category. On a less busy afternoon/evening, we've experienced everything working according to plan. All in all, still the best restaurant for miles around.
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