Tucked in at one side of the movie theatre in downtown Tenafly is a cultural oasis, a little bar that becomes larger in the imagination. Once you become aware of its secrets you'll want to return again and again.
When you step up and in the door of Cactus Sushi, you are immediately confronted with a stark choice: sushi or juice? At first, it seems a bit strange, but if you have a bit of inventiveness, you can ask for anything. Today I had a medium carrot, beet, and kale juice with a yellowtail hand roll to stay.
I sat at the minuscule counter looking out into the street, across the tracks, and onto the grounds of the rail station. The nori was green and lightly toasted. Its flavor blended smoothly in with the sweet tanginess of the rice. The rice warmed the fish, which was generously layered with a few scallions behind it for bite. The juice was cool, deep, and dark, simultaneously mysterious and colorful.
The last time I visited Cactus Sushi, I heard the bells jangling as I stepped out the door. That's what brought me back. Or was it something else?
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