We love St Vaast, and have been coming here for many years, but the town's most fervent admirer could hardly claim that it's restaurant heaven (heavy old-school Norman menus at Les Fuchsias, sous-vide or deep-fried dishes elsewhere). Le Chasse Marée, with a new team, promises well: the freshest fish, competently cooked, is accompanied by al dente vegetables, preceded by fish soup or interesting salads and followed by kid-pleasing desserts (the triple chocolate went down well with our 17-year-old).
Décor is a bit yo-ho-ho, me hearties: no fishing nets, but yachting pennants around the room above black-and-white photographs of fishing boats, quaysides, gnarled fisherfolk, etc.
The wine list is limited; they could use some good advice on a couple of house wines and a short selection of decent bottles, but our Sancerre was drinkable, if not cheap.
Menus at 18, 26 and 37 euros offer value for money; à la carte, about 30 euros a head.
You can eat for half the price at the Débarcadère next door. And at about a fifth of the quality. Do the maths.